Some cruisegoers aren’t interested in river
cruising because of its laidback onboard atmosphere, relaxed pace and the
absence of certain crowd-pleasing venues often found on ocean ships, like
casinos, waterparks, kids clubs, Broadway-style entertainment, etc.
But, for
the right kind of guest, the absence of those things, and the streamlined,
intimate nature of the river cruise experience is precisely its appeal.
A longtime
operator in this market, Viking has
every aspect of river cruising down pat. I couldn’t think of a more apt description
for its style of travel than its tagline, “For the Thinking Person”. Those who with
a passion for history, culture and authenticity, along with a sophisticated yet
homey onboard atmosphere, and a genuine connection with people (both on board
and on shore) and the places they’re visiting will treasure the type of elevated
and intimate experience Viking provides.
I recently sailed
aboard the enchanting Viking Mississippi on the Mississippi Delta Explorer voyage, an eight-day trip that plies the
waters of The Big Muddy northward from New Orleans, stopping in Darrow and St.
Francisville/Baton Rouge, Louisiana; Natchez, Vicksburg and Greenville,
Mississippi; and Memphis, Tennessee.
Deluxe Veranda Stateroom on board the Viking Mississippi. (Photo Credit: Viking)
The itinerary,
which impresses with its uniquely intimate access to several hidden gems of the
American South, is rivalled only by the onboard experience. The Viking
Mississippi shares many signature features common to Viking’s other
award-winning longships, which sail the iconic waterways of Europe, Egypt and
even Asia, including its sleek Scandinavian design and decor, and
well-established public spaces like the two-story Explorer’s Lounge and Bar
with panoramic views from the bow, and indoor/outdoor Aquavit Terrace on the
top deck, perfect for al fresco dining or riverfront views.
But, it’s also
bigger than its overseas counterparts, measuring 450 feet in length and
boasting five decks, featuring 193 all-outside staterooms. Like Viking’s ocean
ships, it also features an infinity plunge pool and sun terrace on the top
deck. Also located on Deck 5 is the River Café, a new dining option that serves
up buffet-style breakfast, lunch, dinner and snacks. Adjacent, The Grill is another
casual concept only available on board the Viking Mississippi, which offers American
classics and barbecue-style fare during lunch and dinner hours.
On Deck 1, just
outside The Restaurant (the Ship’s formal dining venue), sits The Living Room,
a public area with couches, books and coffee, which offers a serene,
sophisticated yet homey atmosphere in which to kick back and relax or soak in
some entertainment. Along with the Explorer Lounge, this serves as the ship’s
main social hub, where guests can mix and mingle, participate in various
scheduled and impromptu activities, or take in daily enrichment talks and live
musical performances.
Memphis Jones performs Blues and Rock ‘n’ Roll classics in The Living Room aboard the Viking Mississippi. (Photo Credit: Northstar Travel Group/Laurie Baratti)
Ship interiors exude
extreme class and understated elegance, with a light and airy feel imbued by natural
wood elements and furnishings, and expansive floor-to-ceiling windows that allow
the sunshine to flood in. Scandinavian architectural design and decorative
motifs are evident everywhere, but in a way that is completely unintrusive,
taking a back seat to the scenery drifting by. I felt fortunate that, with my
sailing being in December, all the public spaces had the added charm of holiday
lights and decorations on display.
Mine was a Deluxe
Veranda Stateroom (268 square feet), which included an extremely comfortable bed
and a separate living area with table, plush chairs, desk (with lighted pop-up
vanity) and mini fridge, plus a private veranda with outdoor seating. I was
pleasantly surprised to discover just how large the bathroom was and how much
storage space was available to me, with both a built-in wardrobe and several
spacious drawers that let me easily unpack all my belongings. Even the side
tables had drawer space to offer, plus there was a 42” flat-screen TV, a
capacious safe and an in-room coffee maker. Oh, and the wi-fi is free for as
many devices as you need.
All staterooms
also feature premium Freyja toiletries, anti-fog mirrors, heated bathroom
floors, hairdryers, plush robes and slippers, luxury linens and pillows, a mini
bar with included soft drinks and snacks, and filtered water refilled daily.
Between the plushness of the bed and the twice-daily service from my stateroom
steward, I could not have felt more spoiled in terms of my particular
accommodations and amenities. There’s also laundry service available and even a
unique self-service launderette on board. Those with limited mobility will
appreciate the sets of elevators available throughout the ship.
The Restaurant on board the Viking Mississippi. (Photo Credit: Viking)
The dining
onboard was fantastic, boasting everything from the freshest fruit and
cooked-to-order items at the breakfast buffet to exquisite dinner options in
the evening at The Restaurant. Except for some always-available dishes, menus
evolved as we went along to reflect the style of cuisine and signature fare
associated with each destination we visited. And the service that accompanied
every meal (well, all the service on board, really) was reliably above and
beyond expectation. Dining staff would routinely go out of their way to make
sure guests had their heart’s desire, even if it had to be prepared or sourced
specially. That level of attentiveness and personalization extended to the
entire crew, whether they were manning the guest services desk or serving as stateroom
stewards.
Since the
demographic of river cruise passengers typically skews older, ample
accommodations were available for those with limited mobility or stamina. Golf
carts ran shuttles up and down the levees throughout the day, taking guests to
the Viking motorcoaches that transported them to and from their excursions.
Notably, all ground transportation is owned and operated by Viking, ensuring
guests can rely on a higher level of comfort and service throughout their journey,
from airport pickup to departure.
Sitting area on the bow of the Viking Mississippi. (Photo Credit: Viking)
New Orleans
I arrived too
late on the first day to enjoy any of New
Orleans, but I imagine a few days’ pre-cruise visit would have only
enhanced the trip with some time spent in The Big Easy. Those who arrived early
enough had the option of partaking in the French Quarter Walking Tour
excursion, an intimate stroll through New Orleans’ oldest and most famous
neighborhood, also known as the Vieux Carré (Old Square). Now a National
Historic Landmark, this 85-square-block area is where the city got its start in
1718. Here, a local expert guides guests through the Quarter’s history, pointing
out such highlights as Jackson Square, home to St. Louis Cathedral; the
Cabildo, where the Louisiana Purchase was signed; and the Pontalba Buildings, iconic
urban townhouses that exemplify the French Quarter’s signature architectural
style.
Darrow
Our second day
saw us dock in Darrow, a key location along The Great River Road — a national
scenic byway that runs along the Mighty Mississippi for almost 3,000 miles
through 10 states. Here, I visited Laura
Plantation on an optional
excursion, where a tour of the house and grounds taught participants about life
on a 19th-century Creole sugarcane plantation, both from the
perspectives of the owning family and enslaved individuals.
Laura Plantation in Darrow, Louisiana. (Photo Credit: Northstar Travel Group/Laurie Baratti)
The day’s
included shore excursion was a visit to Houmas
House, known as “The Crown
Jewel” of Louisiana’s River Road, and its spectacular surrounding gardens.
Established in the late 18th century, it became known as the “Sugar
Palace” in its heyday, when it was producing 20 million pounds of sugar
annually. Here, a guided tour takes guests through the main house, a Greek
Revival–style mansion, filled with elegant period furnishings and artwork, and
still lived in by its current owner.
The grand
historic estate was also decked out for the holidays, with Christmas carols
piped in, twinkling lights and oversized ornaments hanging from its stunning,
sprawling Southern Live Oak trees, some more than 700 years old. There’s also a
bar and three restaurants in other buildings on site, plus 38 acres of gardens,
courtyards, lawns and fountains, and a rather impressive gift shop. Plus, the Great
River Road Museum sits
right next door, although it was closed the day of our visit.
Houmas House in Darrow, Louisiana. (Photo Credit: Northstar Travel Group/Laurie Baratti)
St.
Francisville/Baton Rouge
On day three, at
our stop in St. Francisville, a historic small town in Louisiana’s West
Feliciana parish, I toured the breathtaking Rosedown Plantation, a National Historic Landmark. Dating back
to 1834, the Antebellum mansion and 13 surrounding outbuildings remain in a
state of rare preservation, with around 90 percent of the original furniture
still in place. The surrounding gardens, which sit on roughly 28 acres of the
estate’s original 3,455 acres (most of which were once cotton fields), have
also been restored to their 19th-century glory and are now
maintained by the Louisiana State Parks system, along with the rest of the
site.
Then, on an
included excursion into Baton Rouge, we saw some of the city’s important
landmarks from our motorcoach and stopped in at the Capitol Park Museum to see such exhibitions as “The Louisiana
Experience: Discovering the Soul of America”, “Grounds for Greatness: Louisiana
and the Nation”, and “Billy Cannon: They Called Him Legend.”
Rosedown Plantation in St. Francisville, Louisiana. (Photo Credit: Northstar Travel Group/Laurie Baratti)
Natchez
On day 4, I went
on a couple of optional excursions, including a Soul Food and Music tour that
took us to Natchez’ Dunleith Historic Inn, a National Historic Landmark and
Mississippi’s only remaining antebellum mansion. At its Castle Restaurant, which occupies the estate’s original
carriage house, our group enjoyed a delectable lunch of classic Southern
dishes, consisting of fried chicken, black-eyed peas, okra, sweet potatoes,
biscuits and pecan pie, as well as regional muscadine wines. Afterward, we
stopped at Zion Chapel African Methodist Episcopal Church to learn about and
listen to a stirring a cappella rendition of some gospel tunes by Tony Fields,
minister of music.
The Castle restaurant at Dunleith Historic Inn in Natchez, Mississippi. (Photo Credit: Northstar Travel Group/Laurie Baratti)
In the afternoon,
I embarked on another optional excursion, this time of a seasonal nature,
attending a Holiday High Tea at the stunning Sunnyside
Bed & Breakfast, a
stately antebellum home in downtown Natchez dating back to 1850. The owner,
Colleen Wilkins, a former interior designer who also ran an antiques business
in town, has richly appointed the house with lavish period furnishings, fine
artwork and other décor elements. Most charmingly, she delights in decorating
for the festive season — and boy, does she go all out. Everything from the
home’s exterior to the smallest interior details was spectacularly decked out
with the gorgeous adornments. Thirty-five Christmas trees – each with its own
theme and color scheme – feature prominently throughout every room. The tea
itself was absolutely delightful, featuring a winter-spice brew, finger
sandwiches, mini-quiches, scones, cakes, fruit, and more.
A bedroom inside Sunnyside Bed & Breakfast in Natchez, Mississippi. (Photo Credit: Northstar Travel Group/Laurie Baratti)
Vicksburg
During our
morning in Vicksburg, I took part in an optional excursion: Vicksburg’s
Historic Neighborhoods, which taught us a bit about the city’s beginnings and
its famous role in the Civil War. The tour began at Christ Episcopal Church,
the city’s first house of worship, constructed in 1846, which withstood all the
shelling of the 1860s conflict intact. There, the rector recounted its past and
pointed out interesting elements, like church’s Tiffany stained-glass windows.
Next, we visited the historic Wahl-Schaffer Cottages—which have been combined
into a single home, although each features a distinctive architectural style.
This charming home is owned by Bertram and Carol Hayes-Davis (he is the
great-great grandson of Confederate president Jefferson Davis), who also own
and operate Vicksburg Old Town Tours.
A bedroom inside the Martha Vick House in Vicksburg, Mississippi. (Photo Credit: Northstar Travel Group/Laurie Baratti)
Next, we toured
the historic Greek Revival home of Martha Vick (a daughter of the city’s
founder), aptly named the Martha Vick House. A brick mini mansion built in 1830, it
has since been carefully restored, with plenty of period furnishings, artwork
and décor elements on display. It is now lived in and operated by Lisa
Longfellow, whose father first set about restoring the property and offering
tours to the public in the 1980s.
My second tour
that day was the included excursion to Vicksburg National Military Park, which
was conducted mainly by motorcoach, since the area is so expansive and there is
so much to see. Our guide, certified by the park itself, was extremely
knowledgeable about both the site and Civil War history in general. We spent a
few hours visiting some of the more than 1400 monuments and memorials in the
park, the national cemetery where roughly 17,000 soldiers are buried, and the
battlefield’s role in the 1862 siege that ultimately turned the tide of the war
in the Union’s favor. Also on site is the USS Cairo,
an ironclad gunboat and museum, one of seven formidable City Class gunboats
that prowled the Mississippi River and its connecting waterways during the
Civil War.
The USS Cairo Gunboat and Museum, located at Vicksburg National Military Park in Vicksburg, Mississippi. (Photo Credit: Northstar Travel Group/Laurie Baratti)
Greenville
On our final port
day, the whole ship’s contingent was invited to attend an included Viking
Privileged Access event, hosted by Greenville native and famed
singer-songwriter Steve Azar. Essentially, it was a professionally
produced yet small-scale concert held just for Viking guests, featuring
incredible performances by Azar and his band, whose award-winning music
incorporates elements of the blues, rock ’n’ roll, soul, and gospel. Named the
state of Mississippi’s official Music and Culture Ambassador, Azar had plenty
of history and stories to tell about his beloved home state and how it has
influenced all of America and the world at large.
While guests were
regaled and serenaded, they also dined upon a family-style, authentic Southern
meal consisting of hot tamales, fried catfish, hush puppies, savory pulled
pork, tangy cole slaw, mac and cheese, banana pudding and more. At the close of
the show, everyone was invited to join in a toast with a shot of Mississippi
moonshine, which was surprisingly palatable and even tasty, considering that I
really don’t drink alcohol as a rule.
Two optional
excursions were also on offer that day, though I did not attend either. From
the Steve Azar concert and lunch, guests could opt to travel to Indianola, B.B.
King’s hometown and the site of the B.B. King Museum. There, they could browse its collection
of exhibits and authentic memorabilia while learning about King’s life and the
broader story of the Mississippi Delta’s musical legacy, as well as pay their
respects at King’s final resting place. Alternatively, they could transfer to
Stoneville to visit the Mississippi State University Delta
Research and Extension Center
to gain insights into its research on the region’s agriculture and education
efforts with local farmers.
Steve Azar performs in Greenville, Mississippi, during the “Steve Azar’s Mississippi” event exclusively for Viking guests. (Photo Credit: Northstar Travel Group/Laurie Baratti)
Scenic Sailing
Our final full
day onboard consisted of scenic sailing along the Mississippi as we made our
way toward Memphis, with Delta landscapes, sandbars and dikes drifting by.
There were ample diversions on board for guests who felt inclined, from a
Q&A session with the captain and chief engineer to enrichment
presentations, live music performances, game-show-style gatherings, and
activities such as gingerbread house decorating. Of course, there’s always the
option of dining, taking a book from the library, lounging outdoors on the
Aquavit Terrace or bow seating, dipping your toes in the pool or just enjoying
your pristine stateroom.
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